Sunday, March 31, 2019

Last day in Alishan

Hey there,

sadly this will be our last day here in Alishan. Tomorrow we'll head back to Taipei for our last couple of days in Taiwan.

Today we allowed ourselves to sleep until 8 am, got breakfast, got a coffee at 7/11 and went on our way.
Since we already went to all the places on the tourist map of Alishan Recreation Area except Shuishan Trail and Duegaoyue Trail, we decided to do the latter. The Duegaoyue Trail is a bit further away from all other sights, whereas the Shuishan Trail (along some old railway tracks) is a bit more centrally located in the park, so we thought there might be less people on Duegaoyue. Which turned out to be true (although I can't say how many people were on Shuishan Trail, since we did not go there).

During the night, we heard that it was raining outside, but by the time we went out it was sunny again.




The trail is not as long and not as steep as the Tashan Trail we did yesterday, which was good because we were still pretty exhausted from Mt. Ta. All in all, from Alishan up Duegaoyue (2444 m above sea level) it's only about 3.5 km and about 200 height meters. Although, and this was also true for the Tashan Trail, you often go up, down again, up again, etc. So today we did about 370 positive height meters. For comparison: yesterday we did around 450 just on Tashan Trail (the rest of the day I didn't keep track with my watch).








On the top there was a Taiwanese couple equipped with gas stove who cooked a noodle soup with cabbage and other vegetables and some meat balls. Since they insisted on us having some of it we accepted gladly. It was delicious! The also let us have some of their guava and pineapple.


at the top of Duegaoyue




One thing about Taiwan I wanted to write about is the garbage collection. The garbage trucks always play a short melody when driving around, so that people bring out their trash for the truck to collect. At first we found the melody quite funny and catchy. However it can be a little annoying because you hear it all the time. Even on our hikes we sometimes could hear the melody up on the mountain...

After coming back to Alishan, we grabbed some Dango as a snack and went back to the hotel to rest a bit and write some blog entries.


For dinner we went to the food stalls and had some dumplings, noodles with sesame paste and beef stew rice. Which all were very good and only cost 240 NTD all together. So if you stay in Alishan and don't want to spent that much money on food (but also don't want to eat food from 7/11) I recommend the food stalls.

the evening sky as we walked to the restaurant area





That concludes today.
As I said tomorrow we will be going back to Taipei. But we will take the famous Forest Railway from Fenquihu to Chiayi instead of the bus this time! :)

I hope you enjoyed reading.

See you,
Pia


Saturday, March 30, 2019

Alishan Sunrise and stairs

Hello again,

so yesterday we woke up at 4 am to catch the forest railway to Zhushan (also Chushan) station.
Since we read in many blogs that it can get crowded and we wanted to have a seat in the train and a good spot to view the sunrise on the mountain, we were at Alishan station around 4:20 am. There was already a queue for boarding the train, although the train itself left around 5 am... We couldn't board the train until a little before that, since the train was being inspected before leaving (which is good I guess).

waiting for the train
here comes the train!

We were very lucky and got a seat on the train. The journey takes about 30 min and being as tired as we were it was really relieving not to be one of the passengers having to stand the whole journey. The train was also pretty crowded. And there seem to be multiple trains going up to the sunrise, since there are so many people who want to experience Alishan sunrise.
As expected we didn't see much along the ride, since there was no sunlight ;).
Upon arrival we hurried up a little to get to Mt. Ogasawara Viewing Lot, instead of Zhushan Viewing Point. Zhushan Viewing Point is directly in front of the train station and almost everyone stays there. In order to get to Mt Ogasawara Viewing Lot you have to turn right when exiting the train station and follow the road, which is a little confusing, since the way goes down for a bit and the Viewing Lot is located a little higher up. The path then goes up until you reach the platform. It takes about 10 min to get there from the station, so it's not that bad to do at this early hour.
We were the very first ones to reach the platform, which allowed us to set up the tripod at the best spot for photos (at least we think it was the best spot). Not long after, other tourists arrived, and after a while it also got a little crowded. Just before sunrise some slightly rude women squeezed in between us and the other people already there to get a better view, and better pictures with her phone...
Since I didn't write about it in the last blog entry, the entrance area (hotel, and shopping area and Alishan station) is located at around 2200 m above sea level. Mt. Ogasawara is located at 2488 m. The view is really spectacular and we were really lucky regarding the weather!

That was the moment everyone was going "Ahhh!" and "Ohhh!"



If you are visiting, be advised that, due to the height, Alishan is about 5 to 10 degrees Celsius lower than the coast. So right now it is about 20 degrees. Of course, in the morning before sunrise it will be cooler so be prepared for that! Also the hotels don't have heating (or at least ours doesn't), so if you are here during winter time it might be good to bring warm clothes for sleeping too.
After being swept away by the great view of the sunrise and having taken about 1000 pictures it was time to head back to the restaurant area to get our breakfast. The breakfast is included in our hotel fee but it is not served in our hotel, but in a restaurant in the area.
We noticed that most people viewing the sunrise seem to take the train back down to Alishan (just after sunrise most of the people already leave, maybe due to the train schedule). We decided to walk down instead, since the weather was really nice. The trail down takes about an hour (with several stops for taking photos) and it is pretty easy (about 3.6 km).

the train going down the mountain


old locomotive at Zhaoping station


After arriving at the restaurant we ate our breakfast, which yet again was a Chinese style buffet with lots of warm vegetable, meat dishes, rice porridge and steamed buns or toast with chocolate spread, peanut butter or (what they call) jam. The coffee tasted pretty bad, but the rest was good.
We were really tired and also wanted to leave the tripod at the hotel, so we headed back and took a quick 45 min nap there.
A little refreshed we headed into the park towards the Sister ponds. We also found the jelly drink that I got in Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Museum: it is called Aiyu jelly. It's a jelly made out of the seeds of the awkeotsang creeping fig and is only normally made in Taiwan or Singapore.

Aiyu jelly

pig shaped tree stump
Sister pond

From there the slightly bigger Tashan trail starts, which we wanted to do. At the entrance there was a sign that said that only fit people should go on the trail and that you should check your gear before going up etc. Let me just say the trail is not the easiest (compared to the main area of the park) but it is very doable, even without special hiking gear. It is about 3.5 km long (so 7 km total to go up and down) and you climb 450 m. The peak is at 2663 m above sea level. But don't forget that in order to get to the start of the trail you also have to get there either by walking about 2 km, like we did, or by riding the forest railway to Zhaoping station.
Maybe it wasn't the greatest idea to do the trail after having slept too little and therefore being exhausted, also I think I will have nightmares about stairs...
So many stairs... We don't get why the Taiwanese have to build stairs everywhere...

 
 

But as you can see, the trail is beautiful. There are many birds there, and a sign said that there are also monkeys living in the area. We didn't see any unfortunately, however we are pretty sure we heard some near the peak.
There are also some huge bees and supposedly snakes. So be careful. We saw the bees but they weren't aggressive. However we also always walked away quickly when we heard/saw them.
At the peak the weather was not too great. It was a little flashback to hiking in Jiufen... However not as bad as in Jiufen. We saw a little bit of the mountain at least.




While going down again we met a Chinese couple that asked us how far they were from the peak, and when we told them it was maybe 30 min or so to get to the top, they decided to head down with us instead.
A good amount of the trails runs right beside the train tracks of the sunrise train, which only goes in the morning I believe). While going up we saw a lot of people going on the train tracks and the Chinese couple told us that it was okay to do so, so we decided to go with them on the tracks. However I was pretty sure that it was not allowed (at other locations we had seen signs, also in English, that said that it was forbidden to go on the train tracks) and after some time there was another of the same signs... However we were already quite far along the track and the couple kept saying it was okay... Well, we weren't arrested or anything... But next time I would stick to the official path I guess...

Although we were pretty exhausted from all the stairs we decided to walk to No. 28 Giant tree (they seem to give numbers to all the big trees), which is the oldest and biggest tree in the park (about 2000 years old, 43 m tall) and to Shenyi Waterfall (which is not what we would consider a real waterfall, at least not with the small amount of water that was flowing down...).


No. 28 Giant tree with me for scale
Shenyi "waterfall"
 


After that we were REALLY exhausted and went for some hot pot for dinner.

 
 
 


And then went straight to bed... According to my Garmin watch we walked almost 35000 steps and climbed 207 floors (around 630 m).

Thank you for reading!

Pia